Want to learn how to change oil

First topic message reminder :

i dont know how to change oil and oil filter
but i want to learn more about me bike. I want to be able to do more by my self.
please help

Tom, If you haven't already got the filter off, etc..
Your welcome to ride down to mine and i'll show you how tomorrow..
PM me if you need my postcode.

TomCom wrote:wee bit of dark smoke when i put max acceleration on

Something like that won't be caused by old engine oil. Normally associated with

1) an engine that's been sustained at low revs for a prolonged period of time (I.e not given some wellie and you get carbon deposits in the cylinders and/or exhaust system, a good blast will clear that.

2) blocked or clogged air filter, whip it out and clean or replace

3) carb issues, overfueling, over choking (fuel being pulled through the air system), carbs need cleaning properly.

Dirt Bike Dave wrote:Tom, If you haven't already got the filter off, etc..
Your welcome to ride down to mine and i'll show you how tomorrow..
PM me if you need my postcode.

Tom take Dave up on this offer, and learn from Dave for the next time..

Davie

PS: Dave you only have to take the V peice of the front of the fairing, to get the filter off ( i think you can actually do it through the side panels, if the headers arn,t to hot), the same for the sump plug slacken the sump plug then get a piece of cardboard up inside the fairing to funnel the old oil down into an old basin or what ever you use................

TomCom wrote:oMG why tools are so expensive ?

Because they should last you a lifetime*

I have a tool fetish, I love em. love em, love em, love em




* if you buy a good set

It's actually better to drain the oil when hot (or warm at least) as it becomes more viscous (runny) when hot which means it'll drain more thoroughly, unless you leave it all day. As for the hands just use a rag and be careful.

Its actually personal preference, and many think unecessary, if you read around the other forums, quite a controversial subject.

I agree with Ellie, you can do it cold if you want but I do like to warm it up first.

stretchie_ wrote:

TomCom wrote:oMG why tools are so expensive ?

Because they should last you a lifetime*

I have a tool fetish, I love em. love em, love em, love em




* if you buy a good set

When I started as an apprentice spanner (23 yrs ago) I bought a set of 6 snap on screwdrivers and even back then cost over £40 but paid the guy I think £4 a fortnight, after that my tool box just got populated with whatever I could afford and as I go along I've tried to replace things with snap on, on the one hand well over priced but they are the best and lifetime guarantee, (I had a 6ft scaffold bar on a 1/2" drive bar for leverage once, rivet pinged and the end sheared off, snap on replaced no questions)

I too have a tool fetish, just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Still can't justify buying a router though damn it!!

just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Lucky them!! far better than gold, silver, diamonds and antique porcelain!

ellie wrote:

just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Lucky them!! far better than gold, silver, diamonds and antique porcelain!

Can't afford all that malarkey Ellie, I've spent up on snap on, plus an old vase ain't gonna help fix the car is it

I take the off-side lower fairing panel off for ultimate access as the bike leans away from us on the side stand. but it can be done through the centre triangle panel

Snowcat wrote:

ellie wrote:

just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Lucky them!! far better than gold, silver, diamonds and antique porcelain!

Can't afford all that malarkey Ellie, I've spent up on snap on, plus an old vase ain't gonna help fix the car is it

Aye but if it's a Ming, they could have a Ferrari each

If it was a Ming I'd have sold it by now and given up work myself

ellie wrote:

It's actually better to drain the oil when hot (or warm at least) as it becomes more viscous (runny) when hot which means it'll drain more thoroughly, unless you leave it all day. As for the hands just use a rag and be careful.

Its actually personal preference, and many think unecessary, if you read around the other forums, quite a controversial subject.

In fact, when oil is warm is is less viscous (more runny). All this does is make it drain quicker; doing it cold can still be just as effective, but it takes longer for the oil to drain to the same amount. If you're willing to wait, then do it cold. I always do it warm.

weasley wrote:In fact, when oil is warm is is less viscous (more runny). All this does is make it drain quicker; doing it cold can still be just as effective, but it takes longer for the oil to drain to the same amount. If you're willing to wait, then do it cold. I always do it warm.

That's what I was trying to say just got my less and more mixed up. Know it becomes more runny and flows out more quickly speeding up the job. I prefer warm, not got all day to watch oil drain

so i have stand for bike. will try to change oil on friday

Changing the oil and oil filter is one of the easiest things you can do, if you want to learn more about your bike and do things your self you have got to get a haynes manual

An essential piece of equipment to have