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Want to learn how to change oil

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Want to learn how to change oil - Page 2 Empty Want to learn how to change oil

Post  TomCom Tue Sep 04 2012, 19:23

First topic message reminder :

i dont know how to change oil and oil filter
but i want to learn more about me bike. I want to be able to do more by my self.
please help
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Post  Dirt Bike Dave Wed Sep 05 2012, 22:54

Tom, If you haven't already got the filter off, etc..
Your welcome to ride down to mine and i'll show you how tomorrow..
PM me if you need my postcode.

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Post  Snowcat Wed Sep 05 2012, 23:08

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:wee bit of dark smoke when i put max acceleration on
Something like that won't be caused by old engine oil. Normally associated with

1) an engine that's been sustained at low revs for a prolonged period of time (I.e not given some wellie and you get carbon deposits in the cylinders and/or exhaust system, a good blast will clear that.

2) blocked or clogged air filter, whip it out and clean or replace

3) carb issues, overfueling, over choking (fuel being pulled through the air system), carbs need cleaning properly.
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Post  furball Thu Sep 06 2012, 08:27

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Tom, If you haven't already got the filter off, etc..
Your welcome to ride down to mine and i'll show you how tomorrow..
PM me if you need my postcode.

Tom take Dave up on this offer, and learn from Dave for the next time..

Davie

PS: Dave you only have to take the V peice of the front of the fairing, to get the filter off ( i think you can actually do it through the side panels, if the headers arn,t to hot), the same for the sump plug slacken the sump plug then get a piece of cardboard up inside the fairing to funnel the old oil down into an old basin or what ever you use................
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Post  stretchie_ Thu Sep 06 2012, 09:37

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:oMG why tools are so expensive ?

Because they should last you a lifetime*

I have a tool fetish, I love em. love em, love em, love em




* if you buy a good set
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Post  ellie Thu Sep 06 2012, 09:55

It's actually better to drain the oil when hot (or warm at least) as it becomes more viscous (runny) when hot which means it'll drain more thoroughly, unless you leave it all day. As for the hands just use a rag and be careful.

Its actually personal preference, and many think unecessary, if you read around the other forums, quite a controversial subject.
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Post  stretchie_ Thu Sep 06 2012, 10:10

I agree with Ellie, you can do it cold if you want but I do like to warm it up first.
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Post  Snowcat Thu Sep 06 2012, 10:22

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:oMG why tools are so expensive ?

Because they should last you a lifetime*

I have a tool fetish, I love em. love em, love em, love em




* if you buy a good set
When I started as an apprentice spanner (23 yrs ago) I bought a set of 6 snap on screwdrivers and even back then cost over £40 but paid the guy I think £4 a fortnight, after that my tool box just got populated with whatever I could afford and as I go along I've tried to replace things with snap on, on the one hand well over priced but they are the best and lifetime guarantee, (I had a 6ft scaffold bar on a 1/2" drive bar for leverage once, rivet pinged and the end sheared off, snap on replaced no questions)

I too have a tool fetish, just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day Smile

Still can't justify buying a router though damn it!!
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Post  ellie Thu Sep 06 2012, 10:26

just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Lucky them!! far better than gold, silver, diamonds and antique porcelain! green smile
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Post  Snowcat Thu Sep 06 2012, 10:43

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:
just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Lucky them!! far better than gold, silver, diamonds and antique porcelain! green smile

Can't afford all that malarkey Ellie, I've spent up on snap on, plus an old vase ain't gonna help fix the car is it Wink
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Post  Barnsley Bogtrotter Thu Sep 06 2012, 12:58

I take the off-side lower fairing panel off for ultimate access as the bike leans away from us on the side stand. but it can be done through the centre triangle panel
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Post  ellie Thu Sep 06 2012, 13:49

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:
just treated myself to 3-8" & 1/4" drive ratchet & socket sets, cost a bomb but kids will inherit them one day

Lucky them!! far better than gold, silver, diamonds and antique porcelain! green smile

Can't afford all that malarkey Ellie, I've spent up on snap on, plus an old vase ain't gonna help fix the car is it Wink


Aye but if it's a Ming, they could have a Ferrari each green smile
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Post  Snowcat Thu Sep 06 2012, 16:06

If it was a Ming I'd have sold it by now and given up work myself Smile
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Post  weasley Thu Sep 06 2012, 18:44

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:
It's actually better to drain the oil when hot (or warm at least) as it becomes more viscous (runny) when hot which means it'll drain more thoroughly, unless you leave it all day. As for the hands just use a rag and be careful.

Its actually personal preference, and many think unecessary, if you read around the other forums, quite a controversial subject.

In fact, when oil is warm is is less viscous (more runny). All this does is make it drain quicker; doing it cold can still be just as effective, but it takes longer for the oil to drain to the same amount. If you're willing to wait, then do it cold. I always do it warm.
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Post  Snowcat Thu Sep 06 2012, 20:08

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:In fact, when oil is warm is is less viscous (more runny). All this does is make it drain quicker; doing it cold can still be just as effective, but it takes longer for the oil to drain to the same amount. If you're willing to wait, then do it cold. I always do it warm.
That's what I was trying to say just got my less and more mixed up. Know it becomes more runny and flows out more quickly speeding up the job. I prefer warm, not got all day to watch oil drain Smile
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Post  TomCom Mon Sep 10 2012, 21:10

so i have stand for bike. will try to change oil on friday Smile
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Post  Guest Tue Sep 11 2012, 19:30

Changing the oil and oil filter is one of the easiest things you can do, if you want to learn more about your bike and do things your self you have got to get a haynes manual

An essential piece of equipment to have Laughing
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