Want to learn how to change oil

i dont know how to change oil and oil filter
but i want to learn more about me bike. I want to be able to do more by my self.
please help

Haynes manual. Halfords or eBay. Will show you how to do loots.

so it will be new Haynes book
THX DBD

If you look in the links section and find the post called Workshop Manual, there is a link there to a pdf version

SteveCat wrote:If you look in the links section and find the post called Workshop Manual, there is a link there to a pdf version

Is there anywhere to get it cheaper, you know what he's like

Snowcat wrote:

SteveCat wrote:If you look in the links section and find the post called Workshop Manual, there is a link there to a pdf version

Is there anywhere to get it cheaper, you know what he's like

steal it??

Tom will be pleased to know the Haynes manual is red and white so a match for his new bike, but the downloadable is in black and white.

Changing oil filter is fun and always feels like the Cat is biting you when you have to put your hands near the hot down pipes to remove the filter.

Remember also Tom you cannot pour the old oil down the drain, it has to be disposed of properly down the tip.

It's an easy enough job and I'm sure your more than capable as long as you follow the 5 P's.

YZFJohn wrote:
It's an easy enough job and I'm sure your more than capable as long as you follow the 5 P's.

- Put the kettle on
- Put the water in the cup
- Put the cup down while you work
- Plough on with the work
- Place the now cold cup of coffee to your mouth, take a big swig and spit out because it tastes horrible cold

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Not sure if this helps Tom but there are some useful 'how to' videos on YouTube.

If you value your skin, drain the oil when cool, lots of discussions on the net on the best way to do it if you have a look on Google.

Good find Ellie, AND it's a Thundercat.

I'm guessing this will fall on deaf ears but buy a decent socket set and spend more than £14.99 on it, a decent one that has a selection of screw driver, allen and torx bits too that should do you until you get to buy a decent set of each. you will need these bits to get the fairings off.

If you don't have a torque wrench, when you are doing up the sump plug don't just do it as tight as you can, infact, don't do that to any bolts, not even the axle bolts. I've found that if you do them up until it stops being easy and then nip up a bit that's normally around the same as the torque setting, however that's FAR from scientific or proven and it goes on feel which comes with practice and can't really be described very well.

Don't forget your copper washer for the sump bolt or you can fire up the old one with a little gas torch so it gets a bit of colour back in it but don't do it for too long because you'll melt it, trust me.. And suspend it from a hook or screwdriver or something if you do torch it, don't lie it on concrete and do it... again trust me, concrete can pop and bang sending the washer flying upwards. I nearly ended up with one in my face, I don't do that anymore.

Smear NEW oil around the O ring on the filter before you fit it and don't do it up to 1,000,000 nm because every bike manufacturer like to F**K with us little people and make it awkward enough to get them off as it is.

Last two things, before you put the oil in double check the sump plug and the filter have been refitted even if you are sure they have already been done. If it's got a sight glass I normally fill it until it's at the max level then run the engine for about 10 seconds then stop and let all the oil drain back down through the engine for a few minutes then re top up as needed.

Roberts your mothers brother

You will not buy a socket set that has everything you need, but find something that gives you variety like these:

Two examples from Machine Mart:

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Two examples from Halfords:

My friend has this one

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This is the one I have

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As mentioned, the more jobs you take on the more tools you'll have to buy, I have the tray one above but on several occasions have envied the flexibility of the one in the enclosed hinged case.

For example as soon as you do you do anything with the wheels you'll end up buying a 1/2" breaker bar with a 3/8 converter, then you'll have to buy bigger sockets 24mm, 27mm, 30mm and 32mm for different jobs.

Whether its' removing bike brake calipers, swapping wheel bearings on the Land Rover, building the spare bed after we have moved, pretty much EVERY single job I start, I first start with my stool and a foam mat (I'm not as young as I used to be and my knees are not as forgiving as they used to be), my socket set, my trusty plastic tray of free Halfords screwdrivers (you often get them free with 5 litres of oil), my spanner set, stubby and long nose pliers and a precision instrument (hammer).

Most jobs will not require any more than this, except maybe grease, paper towels and a big bag o swear words

Now I remember why I just take it to the mechy to do

Good advice there - don't be scared off Tom, even I could do it - just too lazy (to go get all the tools etc )

The first oil change you need to do the work yourself but have someone there who knows what they are doing it saves any costly mistakes

Get the oil copper washer off the sump bolt, you may think its missing but it'll be stuck on the bolt, you cannot have two washers on it. There are many types of oil filter removers and I find that the big socket cup for the Thundercat is the easiest

Brilliant advice above, one thing to mention is when firing the bike up for the first time after the oil change DON'T REV IT until the oil light goes out, I'd even avoid revving it until the oil has been topped up.

oMG why tools are so expensive ?

I did my first oil and filter change at the start of the year, the hardest part I found was getting the fairing on and off, watch out for protrouding plastic lugs, especially on the front V panel!

much swearing and apoxy fixed the broken lug......

the actual draining of the sump and changing the filter is reet easy.

If you can get a torque wrench it helps give peace of mind (for me at least) that the sump drain plug and filter re going to stay in place.

Maybe try aldi as they generally do decentish tools for not to much.

here is some useful knowledge for the oil change with regard to tourques

For reference, the washer size is 14 mm, and torques are 17 Nm (filter) and 43 Nm (drain plug).

ellie wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]


Not sure if this helps Tom but there are some useful 'how to' videos on YouTube.

If you value your skin, drain the oil when cool, lots of discussions on the net on the best way to do it if you have a look on Google.

Ellie you are a RockStar :* thx loot

the bike under seat tool roll as enough to do basic things

cant take filter off

Give it a good clean and then try rubber gloves on it to get a really good grip.

Something like this would help if you still can't get a grip -

Big screwdriver through the old oil filter will get it off nice and easy, just don't use the same method to put the new one on. (and before you say who'd be stupid enough to do that I know someone who did!!) and it wasn't me!!

Just a question Tom, does it need the oil doing? Has it not been done for a while, I'd have thought its the sort of thing you'd throw in when selling a bike??

ellie wrote:
If you value your skin, drain the oil when cool, lots of discussions on the net on the best way to do it if you have a look on Google.

It's actually better to drain the oil when hot (or warm at least) as it becomes more viscous (runny) when hot which means it'll drain more thoroughly, unless you leave it all day. As for the hands just use a rag and be careful.

I learnt quickly working for a car dealer in my youth that with their bonus scales you ain't got time to wait for the oil to drip out, use a rag and learn to get out of the way

last owner didn't change oil but he said the owner before him did. it was 8 month ago. filter look like never change, wee bit of dark smoke when i put max acceleration on

TomCom wrote:cant take filter off

have you taken the drain plug out??????


only if not then run the engine until it's warm before removing the sump bolt, lastly take off the oil filter.

smear the rubber of the new filter with new oil and screw it on.

replace the washer on the sump bolt and screw in

put new oil in to half window.

start bike and get it warm, switch off

re check the oil level after 5 mins of standing still

top up to half window

Tom, If you haven't already got the filter off, etc..
Your welcome to ride down to mine and i'll show you how tomorrow..
PM me if you need my postcode.