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Easy way to remove rust prior to finishing

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Easy way to remove rust prior to finishing Empty Easy way to remove rust prior to finishing

Post  Snowcat on Mon Jan 23 2012, 19:36

As you may or may not know I've been threatening for a while to strip down my rear shocker, clean, paint and refit the spring.

Well this week I'm finally getting round to stripping it down and I don't really have access to a workshop, compressors and spray equipment, just your basic DIY tool box.

I was wondering if anyone has any good advice for removing the rust without loads of dodgy chemicals and turning my garage into some kind of bubbling lab!!

I've heard about the merits of vinegar, baking soda and even soaking it in coke (the drink)!!

Has anyone had any success with any of the above or have any other tips they'd care to share?

Thanks all as ever Very Happy
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Post  Panzerbuilder on Mon Jan 23 2012, 19:45

For me it was just a wire brush, emery cloth and plenty of elbow grease! stars
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Post  SteveCat on Mon Jan 23 2012, 20:16

stevedj2000 wrote: even soaking it in coke (the drink)!!
Have used this a few times to get rust out of radiators and pipes etc. which worked well, not so successfully on bolts and the like though. These days I tend to use it as my 'secret' ingredient in marinades (umm, not so secret any more) Smile

I have a feeling it's the elbow grease method.
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Post  Snowcat on Mon Jan 23 2012, 20:21

Yeah I was going to soak the spring overnight in it but heard different stories of relative success.

Perhaps I shall soak pork ribs in it overnight and slow cook as a treat for when I've finished on the spring with a wire brush clappy
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Post  bobh on Mon Jan 23 2012, 21:31

The active ingredient in Coke is phosphoric acid, though it's obviously very dilute. You used to be able to get anti-rust preparations from car spares shops based on it, which would be a more concebtrated version - Kurust is one I remember - but not sure if it's still available.

If my ancient memory serves, it converts rust (Fe2O3??) to millscale (Fe3O4??) which is black and less chemically active. And you need to wash it of after it's done its job and before painting.

To be effective you still need to remove as much as possible of the loose rust first, though - so back to the elbow grease!
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Post  mechy69 on Tue Jan 24 2012, 05:18

i cheated , took it to local bead blaster and paid £10 to have swing arm/spring done
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Post  billyw on Tue Jan 24 2012, 09:08

Sounds like £10 well spent I'd say!
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Post  Snowcat on Sat Jan 28 2012, 10:15

Shocker off and I light of the previous posts gonna get it bead blasted and powder coated, save all the hassle!!
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Post  Snowcat on Tue Jan 31 2012, 17:35

Went back on my own laziness and with a combination of wire wool, sand paper and elbow grease cleaned shocker up nicely.

Came back from powdercoaters today and put back together, too cold to go to the garage and fit it so I'll do it tomorrow, if weather picks up !!
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Post  Panzerbuilder on Tue Jan 31 2012, 21:24

I doubt it will get any warmer. It was chuffin cold on the bike going to work this morning. Plus its getting colder, allegedly. violin
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Post  Snowcat on Thu Feb 02 2012, 12:10

Braved it last night, got dressed in 10 layers and re-fitted to rear shock, also new iridium stubby indicators, refitted under seat tray, tail light, battery and all the electrics. Pleased to say alarm etc still works and I managed not to cross wire the indicators.

Back in tonight to finish fitting tank, seat and side fairings before cleaning and checking over ready for test ride on Sunday complete with luggage!!
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