Yamaha Thundercats
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suprise Trying to find...

Post  Nanabanana Mon Jan 30 2012, 18:09

Does anyone know where I can buy a battery and crash bungs that don't cost the earth?
looked online and cant seem to find either for under £60.... Shocked
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suprise Re: Trying to find...

Post  Snowcat Mon Jan 30 2012, 19:04

Just had a quick look, your talking £30 for a battery, (min) and same for the crash bungs, I wouldn't skimp on the battery though IMO Smile
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Post  TomCom Mon Jan 30 2012, 19:06

i need some crash bungs tongue anybody know where i can get longer ones ??
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Post  robertcains Mon Jan 30 2012, 19:15

The battery is only three years old, have you tried trickle charging it or getting it tested?
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Post  Ezzy's Mum! Mon Jan 30 2012, 19:18

Like Steve says buying a cheap battery is just false economy - I had one on mine once it lasted a year balked a bit at handing over £70 but it was well worth it and going strong - as for crash bungs - mine has R&G on which aren't cheap but again worth the outlay as you can rely on them doing their job in the unlucky event they're needed - I heard story of someone buying cheap ones which have shattered when the bike went down altho I've no doubt someone will be able to recommend something Very Happy
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Post  robertcains Mon Jan 30 2012, 19:23

If u look at Daves crash bugs there is a web addy on the end of the undamaged one lol, give them a look?
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Post  0ldcat Mon Jan 30 2012, 20:09

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:i need some crash bungs tongue anybody know where i can get longer ones ??
You do know how google works ? . . . Don't you ?
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Post  TomCom Mon Jan 30 2012, 20:11

i ask here couse i know you have more experience and you can advice me what to do i dont want to spend money on shit items.
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Post  Rosco Mon Jan 30 2012, 22:23

I wouldn't have anything other than R&G on mine.

They have saved the bike from much more serious damage on more than one occasion.

Might be lucky and get them on eBay or just direct from R&G
Google shopping is what I normally use when searching.

Might be able to get a left one somewhere and a right elsewhere which might save a few bob.

The bolts are special in that they will bend and NOT shear.
They are different lengths for either side and must not be over tightened as your engine block threads will go first.

Hope this helps
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Post  past-it Mon Jan 30 2012, 23:40

Look on Amazon there parts are cheap but so far all the things I've bought have been worth the money. The R&G bungs are not cheap (anywere) but worth the money and there is a Yuasa YTX12-BS battery for sale for £46.49. Hope the link works
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Post  Nanabanana Tue Jan 31 2012, 09:46

Thanks,
the battery is starting to die as dave thought it would be a good idea to keep the lights on while i ran up to the yurt to grab a code for the padlock to let us in 'cuz he was afraid of the dark...
And with the crash bungs, sounds like it might be worth forking out a little bit more for the R&G ones, or might have a look at Daves
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Post  ellie Tue Jan 31 2012, 09:53

the battery is starting to die as dave thought it would be a good idea to keep the lights on while i ran up to the yurt to grab a code for the padlock to let us in 'cuz he was afraid of the dark


Bless, poor little Davey-wavey!
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Post  SteveCat Tue Jan 31 2012, 11:19

The R&G support is extremely helpful. I had worked out the unfitted bungs I had been given with the bike were R&G, needed a bolt which they supplied no problem.

As Rosco said be careful not to tighten too much, there is a honeycomb spacer inside the bung which is designed to collapse under certain conditions (I didn't ask!)

link to the bungs and fitting instructions.

Certain battery chargers give you a health status of the battery, if you can get access to one, might be worth let the charger do its magic if it is able to. I found my 5+ year old Yuasa developed a bulge in the case, the plates had buckled :( Replaced with one on Amazon.
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Post  YZFJohn Tue Jan 31 2012, 12:59

If I remember correctly the R&G fixing bolts are Hex (Allen Key) and I had to buy the correct size Hex bit to fit my Torque Wrench so that I could do them up to 40nm as recommended otherwise you crush the sacrifficial spacer (as per StevecCats posting).

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Post  Snowcat Tue Jan 31 2012, 14:25

Never knew there was so much science behind these crash bungs. I just thought you screwed some bits of plastic to the sides of your bike and they sit there quietly waiting for you to have a spill so they can stick out more than the rest of the bike and spare as much damage as possible.

Bloody sacrificial washers and honeycomb bits... Sounds to me like a piece of soap that doesn't come back from the shower and a crunchie!! Smile

Going to much more respectful to mine in future


Last edited by stevedj2000 on Tue Jan 31 2012, 14:27; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Spelling and grammar)
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Post  SteveCat Tue Jan 31 2012, 15:17

Maybe some of the cheap ones are not much more than oversized door stops.
Last thing you need is for the bung to dig into the road and flip the bike about, or for the bolt to sheer off.

Think that's why only one brand has been suggested.
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Post  YZFJohn Tue Jan 31 2012, 16:18

R&G also do one to protect your Exhaust too!
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Post  Rosco Tue Jan 31 2012, 17:00

I've got r&g bar ends ;

Never had to 'use' them and hopefully never will.
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Post  MrNutt Tue Jan 31 2012, 18:34

i dont appreciate being picked on! grumpy

I had my head light on and my bike was fine tongue

annas bike after this would sometimes fire first time no probs but other times would just stay on the starter motor and not spin up and would take a bit of persuading, or left to settle for a bit then would fire right up.

my first assumption was the battery, but could it lso be something to do with the reg/rec?
or poss something to do with the TPS ooorr the carbs?

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Post  robertcains Tue Jan 31 2012, 18:39

If you left the lights on without the bike running then you probably simply took too much out of it, It's possible to finish off an iffy battery like this but an optimate or similar should bring it back.
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Post  SteveCat Wed Feb 01 2012, 09:46

When you are turning the engine over to start it and it doesn't take, is the starter running slowly or does it sound normal?

I used to have the odd problem where the engine turned over perfectly but wouldn't fire. eventually worked out if I turned off the key and turned it back on again it started!!!
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Post  MrNutt Wed Feb 01 2012, 10:13

it sometimes sounded normal but then would get limper and limper, though on most occasions we turned it off and left the bike or moved it and by the time we had moved it it would fire up straight away.

so maybe its just 'a thing' the bike has but is no actual real issue/nothing is broken..
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Post  SteveCat Wed Feb 01 2012, 10:26

'fraid it does sound like the battery. It looks like it was pretty cold which is a double whammy for the battery, firstly the amount of power available is reduced in the cold as well as an engine which requires more crank power to get it to turn.
I'd put it on a charger if you can, maybe it'll recover.
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Post  MrNutt Wed Feb 01 2012, 10:31

I foughts I was correct at guessing the problem!

I had a similar issue on my first bike, was outside in the cold weather under its toasty cover for about 2-3weeks without being run, the day I actually needed it to get to oxfordshire from leeds, I got nada from the battery, took me 2 hours to bump start the thing on a very steep hill, only issue was it didn't fire first time, and it was a long push back to the top, much shouting and swearing later I was on my way and a big lesson learn't!!!!
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Post  past-it Wed Feb 01 2012, 10:44

It does sound like the battery but do check the battery terminals to check that they are tight and clean, and not forgetting the earth leads on the frame. The main feed to the ignition switch should also be checked at its multiplug as these corrode, pull it apart and check the terminals the refit it with vaseline or battery terminal protector.
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