After Some Tips & Suggestions Please

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Post  randomeclipse on Mon Aug 05 2013, 11:02

Hi all,

Happy Monday (boo!)

Recently picked up a 'Cat, which is also my first "big" bike and was after a little advice.

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1) The right front indicator housing appears to have lost it's protective surround where it sits against the fairing, therefore I was wondering if this is something I should look to resolve by picking up a new right indicator from fleeBay or, a more preferred route, pick up some new flush against the fairing indicators - if so any recommendations on which look nice? Smile

2) What fluids would you guys recommend as I was planning to pick up the supermarket stuff - but would I see a real different if I went and spend more cash on branded oil, brake fluid and coolant?

3) I plan to pick up a Haynes manual, as I hope to change the oil, filter, brake fluid myself - but I'm a little apprehensive being a complete novice. But, hey if you don't try you don't learn Smile

4) Paddock stands, I assume a read stand would suffice or is it worth for the short-term picking up both read and front?

5) Cleaning! - Any tips on this as I heard I shouldn't wash it when the engine is still warm for one, but I also want to make the wheels and chrome pieces shine as if they were new, so would greatly appreciate some tips on what products are best for that if I can Smile

There were more questions, but instead of posting a wall of text I'll leave it there hehe.

Thanks again.
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Post  mrfrance on Mon Aug 05 2013, 12:25

Hello and welcome! I see you're in Shropshire, you just missed our annual Bishops Castle ride out (which is always a blast!) I would recommend you joining in next year green smile 

I will try and give you my 2 pence on your questions but others may have better solutions..

1) I'm not the best person to answer but there are some threads on this if you search

2) Any 10/40 Part-Synth is good for the cat, just change the oil regularly and you can never go wrong. I have found with using too expensive oil the cat doesn't like it and cat get a slippy clutch. As for other fluids any Dot 4 brake fluid and any coolant will do the job. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] do a pretty good coolant deal. It should last 5 years so you shouldn't need to change too often.

3) I recommend picking up a haynes or there is a free electronic one available on this forum. These jobs are very simple to do, once you have done it once you will be an expert!

4) I assume you mean rear and not read? The rear stand will be mostly all you require, if you want both there are also other alternative stands which can give you a central lift instead...

5) Cleaning when warm is fine.. jet washing when hot I wouldn't recommend but don't get yourself too hung up on this. There are some on here who don't believe in cleaning and others like yourself love to keep bits shiny. Triple wax shampoo and polish are pretty good in my opinion. Some people take the wheels off and use wd40 to get the grease off, just be minful of keeping the stuff away from your brakes and tyres! If you are not dry storing your cat over winter then I would recommend coating all metal bits in ACF50 (I think that's what it's called) this will protect from rust etc...

Hope this helps

Cheers

Paul
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Post  greencat on Mon Aug 05 2013, 14:52

good post 

plus

1. Indicators are a personal preference so have a look at what's available and go with what you like. I don't think there's a consensus on here about what's best as far a indicators go. Of course they should be visible and functioning. Some of the clear indicators with an orange bulb are not so good in my opinion.

4. A rear paddock stand will be sufficient unless you're thinking of changing the oil in the forks and don't have somewhere to hang your 'cat (so to speak!).

5. Cleaning is recommended Very Happy Durty 'cat's are not nice! But if you want to make the chrome gleem you're going to have to polish it regularly and the wheels will take some effort to keep looking good if they've been polished. However there's something to be said for 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Cleaning' (just don't tell Ross about it!)

A bit more info on the age and mileage of your 'cat and I'm sure others will have more advice to offer.
Oh, and don't worry about getting stuck in and doing your own maintenance. The cat isn't too difficult to work on and now you're on the site you've got backup!

Cheers,
Chris

PS Welcome to the site green smile

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Post  stretchie_ on Mon Aug 05 2013, 15:48

Alright there, my tuppence is below in red


[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:1) The right front indicator housing appears to have lost it's protective surround where it sits against the fairing, therefore I was wondering if this is something I should look to resolve by picking up a new right indicator from fleeBay or, a more preferred route, pick up some new flush against the fairing indicators - if so any recommendations on which look nice? Smile

Flush mount indicators belong on gixxers, to bikers on Visordown and are the work of the devil. They are crap and normally hard to see which defeats the whole point, indicators should be big, orange, bright and easily seen keep them original


2) What fluids would you guys recommend as I was planning to pick up the supermarket stuff - but would I see a real different if I went and spend more cash on branded oil, brake fluid and coolant?

Don't use car oil, you want something designed for a wet clutch, I've been using Halfords 10w/40 across many bikes (mine and friends) with no issues over many 10's of thousands of miles each bike, doesn't mean it's the best stuff but conforms to required standards and is proven in my eyes, I'd say the current best is something that conforms to JASO MA2

3) I plan to pick up a Haynes manual, as I hope to change the oil, filter, brake fluid myself - but I'm a little apprehensive being a complete novice. But, hey if you don't try you don't learn Smile

That, my friend, is a good attitude, don't be afraid to ask for help (obviously you aren't as you have put this post up), there are many helpful people on here who are willing to help you out if close enough

4) Paddock stands, I assume a rear stand would suffice or is it worth for the short-term picking up both read and front?

A rear stand is a good start but if you are in a position to then then front as well but if you can only get one deffo go for the rear, I don't like the front paddock stands that go under the forks, I bought one and use it but I would like to have a headstock one instead

5) Cleaning! - Any tips on this as I heard I shouldn't wash it when the engine is still warm for one, but I also want to make the wheels and chrome pieces shine as if they were new, so would greatly appreciate some tips on what products are best for that if I can Smile

I can understand not spraying aload of cold water onto a hot engine, but when I had my cat I never had a problem riding to the garage and using the jet wash, the only problem I ever had doing that was on my first fuel injected bike so never did it again after that but did it loads on the cat. As for the wheels have a butchers at my recent thread here:

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It's not a step by step but it describes what I did with before and after pics and what you could do more if you want them proper shiney


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Post  randomeclipse on Mon Aug 05 2013, 15:55

Hey guys, thanks a lot for the replies.

A little more information re. the bike!

- She's a 2002, 52 plate.
- She's done 40,000 miles, which I was a little apprehensive about, but there was a plethora of service history and regular services so wasn't that bothered - plus I got it for a good price I thought of £1,000.
- Not a dent on her, although there are a few scratches here and there, which I put down to the usual wear and tear.

Cheers.
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Post  mikeyzf600 on Mon Aug 05 2013, 23:58

Sounds like you got a good deal! Nice bike.

Good tips from everyone, I'll chuck my 2p in too:

1) I've got some flush mounted indicators on my bike. They're pretty good on the visibility side and give the old girl a slightly more modern look. As long as they can be seen, it's down to personal preference. I think mine are available on sportsbikeshop.co.uk.

3) Everyone starts somewhere. Start small and work your way up perhaps? Changing the brake fluid is a good place to start. I'd recommend a bleeding kit from halfords. Very much worth the £5. Makes it less of a mind numbing task. The oil and filter can be done with the fairings on, but easier when off. Gives you a chance to check behind the fairings as well then for anything unforseen.

4) Yet to find a front paddock stand which lifts the 'cat as it's meant to by the forks. It never seems to seat properly. I'd also recommend a headstock stand.

5) Cleaning. As said above, don't worry too much about cleaning when warm. After all, Yamaha say to start the engine up after cleaning in the hand book.

My usual routine varies depending on time of year.

Summer:

2 bucket method
Dry
Polish if needed (Sdoc100 paint & plastic polish is quite good)
Carbuna Wax.

Winter (Post ACF50 treatment by AllYearBiker)

Gentle snow foam
2 bucket method
Dry
Polish
Wax
Top up ACF50


Hope that helps.

Regards

Mike
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Post  Wooster on Tue Aug 06 2013, 00:11

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote: There are some on here who don't believe in cleaning...

That'll be the Lanarkshire contingent.. green smile 

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Post  randomeclipse on Wed Aug 07 2013, 15:23

Oh and while I remember - Tyre's!

I've read lots of different PSI figures for a single rider with no luggage, ranging from 34 to 38 in the front and anything from 34 to 44 odd in the rear.

What say you? Smile
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Post  MrNutt on Wed Aug 07 2013, 15:41

36 front 42 rear for me


though tuther day it was 36 front and 3 rear......Embarassed
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Post  SteveCat on Wed Aug 07 2013, 15:42

36/42 here too
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Post  stretchie_ on Wed Aug 07 2013, 16:04

There are recommended settings for A -single rider B -Rider with pillon/ luggage/ single rider fast

The later is 36psi front, 42 rear. I have always used that for all occasions on the cat
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Post  Wooster on Wed Aug 07 2013, 16:37

Another tip is probably not to leave your lid on the seat where it can fall off and maybe crack the shell.
Some hang it on the handle bars, but I generally leave it on the ground...it can't fall off the ground...Question 

(There's a clamp on the seat lock for hanging it on it's D-Rings, but the only time I recall using that was at Leuchars a few years ago)
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Post  mrfrance on Fri Aug 09 2013, 12:43

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Another tip is probably not to leave your lid on the seat where it can fall off
Haha or you could do a helmet Dave at BC this year and punch it off accidently onto a downhill slope leading into the path of an oncoming 4x4 rofl 
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Post  Wooster on Fri Aug 09 2013, 12:54

Laughing Laughing Laughing


[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:36 front 42 rear for me


though tuther day it was 36 front and 3 rear......Embarassed
green smile 
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Post  randomeclipse on Wed Aug 28 2013, 18:49

I've noticed a small vibration through the handlebars (grips), would that be expected on a 11 year old bike or are there some usual suspects I can check? Smile
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Post  Wooster on Wed Aug 28 2013, 19:08

Are we talking an engine type vibration or something rather odd?

(The vibration from the engine leaves me with numb fingers after a long run)
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Post  Rosco on Wed Aug 28 2013, 20:00

My guess would be carbs out of balance.
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Post  MrNutt on Wed Aug 28 2013, 20:02

Could be front wheel bearings, just had mine done recently and there was more vibes and some slight juddering, especially under braking
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Post  stretchie_ on Wed Aug 28 2013, 22:01

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:I've noticed a small vibration through the handlebars (grips), would that be expected on a 11 year old bike or are there some usual suspects I can check? Smile
My guesses would be bar ends, wheel bearings or head bearings loose or wheel out of balance.
In that order as you can check the first three easily, providing you have bike stands.

Bar ends - just hold them between thumb and fore finger and twist and wigggle them. Do they move? If yes they need tightening

Wheel bearings - get a volunteer to hold the bars hard to the left or right, kneel to the left or right of the wheel, get your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock and try to twist gently (pull 9 towards you and push 3 away then reverse) the key is to try and keep the forks stationary while seeing if the wheel wobbles while you try to rock it, if the wheels clunks and moves the wheel bearings need changing. Probably better to test with the front end off the floor.

Headstock bearings - if you can get the front end up, kneel on the floor in front of the bike, have a volunteer steady the bike, grab the bottom of the forks and gently rock back and forth, if it clunks and moves a bit then need adjusting, if persists needs replacing


Wheel balancing - Go to tyre shop if all the above are fine


Last edited by stretchie_ on Thu Aug 29 2013, 19:52; edited 1 time in total
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Post  past-it on Wed Aug 28 2013, 23:32

An across the frame four will always have vibes, careful setting up of the carbs will make it better.
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Post  SteveCat on Thu Aug 29 2013, 09:01

I'd suspect the carbs might need balancing.
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Post  randomeclipse on Thu Aug 29 2013, 16:34

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Once I pick up a paddock stand I'll give it the once over taking the above in to account.

Cheers.
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