Winter 'cat project

First topic message reminder :

Figured i'd start a thread here i couldn't see a dedicated "Projects" section and will help me document any/all work done to this thing.
I'm riding my gpz through the winter so this is likely going to sit for a while



As i do with pretty much any vehicle i buy i normally strip it down to make sure there aren't any hidden surprises, which i've started doing on the 'cat.

First things first was replacing the pads that were worn down to the plate. Easy right?



well.. an easy job of cleaning up the pistons and putting new pads in turn into a right 'mare when one of the pistons popped out :( I've rebuilt both calipers now with new seals and bled the brakes through (both stupid jobs due to being a one piece caliper as well as having 4 pistons either side of the wheel)



test ride has been done and brakes didn't fail.. must have done something right    

Next issue, one of the bolts holding the front mudguard on has sheared and looks to have been glued in to hide it. I'l have a go at drilling it out but i recon the monkey that did it cross threaded it which is why is snapped.

Oil change and full fairing removal happening before christmas

Ah that's perfect man, thank you! Does the mirror without the base have glass?

Sent you a msg

Yeah both have glass mate and I've replied to you message..... i think lol hard to work out on the mobile version

Haha tell me about it. There is an option for the web version somewhere

So close, yet so far.

Today, thanks to a kind sir on here, I've fitted a working mirror and have working rear indicators. The rears don't half stick out do they

Replacement shifter is going to be fitted tonight too however I've hit a minor snag.


I lied. Its not minor.

Replaced one side of the crash bungs without issue. When doing the other side it seems to want to keep turning, so I obliged. The result is a snapped bolt in the head that I have no funking idea how I'm going to get out.

daNc wrote:So close, yet so far.

Today, thanks to a kind sir on here, I've fitted a working mirror and have working rear indicators. The rears don't half stick out do they

Replacement shifter is going to be fitted tonight too however I've hit a minor snag.


I lied. Its not minor.

Replaced one side of the crash bungs without issue. When doing the other side it seems to want to keep turning, so I obliged. The result is a snapped bolt in the head that I have no funking idea how I'm going to get out.

Left handed drill bit. Get that on there and when it starts to bite and cut in it should start to undo the bolt. If not drill and retap

I tried drilling it this afternoon. Despite a centre punch dead in the middle I struggled to get anywhere with the engine in the frame.

Fairing has been taken off now so I can drop the engine. Any tips from those who have done it?

On the plus side, at least I'm have access to clean bits of the frame I don't usually see.

daNc wrote:I tried drilling it this afternoon. Despite a centre punch dead in the middle I struggled to get anywhere with the engine in the frame.

Fairing has been taken off now so I can drop the engine. Any tips from those who have done it?

On the plus side, at least I'm have access to clean bits of the frame I don't usually see.

Did you use a left handed drill bit or a right handed one in reverse?

Drain oil and coolant before you start. Loosen back wheel and slide forward so you can hook chain off front sprocket. If your going to drop the engine then make sure all pipes/cables and wires are disconnected. Don't forget the earth wire on right side of engine just by the footpeg/in front of starter motor. Also to get an easy drop front and rear paddock stands. Put a bit of board on a trolley jack and jack it under the engine to support it. Also remove either the sidestand switch or if the screws are rusted you need to remove the shift rod from clutch side. If not either of these are done then its a 2 man job to remove as it will need tipping forward and to the right for the shift rod to clear the side stand switch. If you do one of the above then it is a one man job to drop it straight down and out. Leave the rear mount bolt in till last but loosen all mounting bolts before removing any. When you start to drop the engine put one hand at the front to stop it pivoting forward and give it a wiggle side to side to release the rear of the engine. I removed one by only having to remove the exhaust and headers. Radiator moves forward enough so shouldn't have to remove that.

I think I've asked before, where about in Berkshireare you? I have the tools and equipment to give you a hand if need be? 2 guys no more than 30 mins to get the engine out. I did mine single handed in just under an hour.

I'm in reading for the moment but currently waiting to move to Swindon. Solicitors and chains are holding things up.

Fwiw I got the engine tilted forward enough on the lower rear mount to see the extent of my duck up and can see the drill has actually cut into some of the alloy :( enough for me to think a helicoil isn't going to work.

My options now are to replace the head. Put it all back and run on 3 upper mount points without the bungs
Or try helicoil and hope it works.

On a plus I found why my throttle was sticking. The return cable was frayed and catching on the surround. That needs replacing as well as the clutch cable.

All in this just became a much more long term fix than I'd hoped

Could be in luck, I have 2 set of throttle cables in good condition and an engine that being used for parts. All four mounting points are in great shape, head is straight. Only reason it's parts is knackered second gear.

In regards to replacing the head its your call really. I would change it but then again I'm a bit ocd. The rear and 3 months nuts would be enough to hold it but maybe think about helicoil first and then head swop. Not sure also how it would stand on mot purposes if you had engine mount bolt missing.

Nice, whre you based?

I'm still thinking it over but it's likely going to be a replacement. It would bug me that it's not right.

PM sent

Today at 11:29
by Stuart Moss
Hi
This is 1st time I've posted so hopefully I'm doing it in right place !
I am giving my thundercat a refresh so I will basically have a new bike, and I need some new conrods, I have found a manufacture of performance conrods in Australia but they don't get asked for thundercat ones anymore and are reluctant to make just one set.
So I'm wondering if anyone needs conrods so we can increase the order, they are far superior to standard con rods and cheaper than oem con rods.
Please reply if your interested
Ps the other work I'm doing on my bike is --
Engine refresh and porting etc,
Rejecting,
New exhaust,
Thinking about a quick shifter?
All metal work,frame,swing arm,wheels,calipers, etc getting powder coated
Fairings sprayed the late original blue colour,
Tail tidy,
Led rear lights with built in Indicators,
Maxston shock and upgraded front forks ,
Recromed the fork stantions,
Upgraded front brake to R1 and hel brake lines .
Handmade seat from top sellerie in Paris ( very cool)
Rear sets

And other bits and bobs



Thanks mossy